10 years of Jonathan Anderson at Loewe

farewell to Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Proenza boys at Loewe, huh? what I wore in miami, filipe wants to know if men are ok (they're not).

Jonathan Anderson photographed by Johnny Dufort for the cover of T Magazine

I will always be a Dries girl, a Rick Owens BT (before Tyrone) girl, a Junya/CDG girl, a Margiela girl, an old Celine girl and a Jonathan Anderson girl.

For the past 14 years, his work has been a constant in my world, the only designer I can truly say I’ve grown with, much like the way I’ve grown with Rihanna. When she gave us that first glimpse of her son, RZA, the resounding question in my group chat was: Is it our time too? There’s something about witnessing an artist’s ascent in real time, tracking their evolution along your own.

I knew very early on, one day he’d be one of the greats. I remember his debut collection, fresh out of London College of Fashion, the early collaborations with Topshop and Aldo (I had every single shoe from that collab), the stint at Versus, Versace’s now-defunct diffusion line before he landed at Loewe. Through it all, his work has remained singular, and deeply attuned to the cultural moment, an impressive feat considering the current fashion landscape, where homogeneity reigns and most of fashion feels like a blur.

Jonathan with Donatella after his collection for Versus

What Jonathan Anderson has done with Loewe in the past decade deserves to be studied. Not to diminish the contributions of his predecessors, but let’s be honest, no one reminisces about Narciso Rodriguez or Stuart Vevers’ tenure at Loewe. Their time at the house feels like a footnote, whereas Jonathan’s era is the defining chapter of the house. His Loewe isn’t just a successful iteration of the brand; it’s now the foundation upon which Loewe’s future is being built. And with all the rumors swirling, a possible appointment at Dior, both men’s and women’s, and talk of a well needed year-long hiatus, I can’t help but wonder about the world he’ll create next.

the proenza boys + loewe.

I heard the whispers about their appointment last August and I refused to believe. It just felt impossible to imagine, I’m still a bit confused tbh. But I feel like the decision is rooted in not disrupting or rather undoing the house codes Jonathan established for the brand.

zegna’s cd on short socks & tight clothes.

Zegna is perhaps my favorite menswear brand at the moment, so I’m attuned to anything Alessandro Sartori has to say on and off the runway and he’s making points. I want men to wear full length socks. Seeing bare ankles, especially when wearing suiting feels so vulgar. Also agreed on tight pants, the tight chinos are diabolical.

i’m not watching white lotus but..

I like miami, sadly.

wearing a sheer linen shirt from the Frankie shop, Ferragamo linen skirt, Vivienne Westwood scarf on my waist, Loewe folding puzzle bag, Bottega Veneta aviators

I’ve been to Miami a few times, mostly for work and every time I’m there, I feel so at peace. Don’t get me wrong I love NYC, through and through but I’m beginning to think about if it’s where I want to be, long term.

Meryll Rogge dress from 2 or 3 summers ago, found one on poshmark, it’s a 10, I’m wearing an 8.

Ferragamo heeled ballet sandal with ribbon

*plays Ballerina Girl - Lionel Richie* I’m so proud of what Max is doing at Ferragamo.

Martine Rose People shirt

I mentioned this shirt in my last post, it’s the first thing I bought this year. I love Martine so much, I really see her, I get it, the way she encapsulates London’s Caribbean diaspora in her clothes, her lens is very cultural in an anthropologist kind of way, it’s very transportive, takes me right back to London. The people on the shirt are her friends, family and employees, what an intentional love letter to them.

Comme des garçons bag, Celine shirt (Phoebe era) and 16Arlington skirt

This is a vintage Just Cavalli dress. Many years ago I saw it at Harrods and I didn’t have the money to buy it, and it’s lived in my mind ever since lol. Every year or so I’ll do a google search on it, and this year I found it, brand new with tags!!! on Vestiare for $70. It’s very 80’s Miami, the back is low with a cape like effect. The younger me is very happy I found it.

I stayed at the Miami Beach Edition and it was nice! I liked it a lot and it smelled gorgeous and all the employees wore white and the furniture was white, it was very chic. I’d stay there again.

hourglass phantom balm in rise - my favorite lip balm/gloss, diptyque lilyphea perfume, miu miu leather slippers, Beats by Dre noise cancelling headphones, the end of fashion by teri agins , touchland hand sanitizer

fave song this week.

sunnies.

bought these alaia sunnies recently. i’m not the biggest fan of pieter’s rtw at alaia but i love the footwear and accessories.

my first puzzle.

Loewe sent me her as a gift and I’m truly grateful. The puzzle has been on my list for a while and I decided this year I’d finally buy one as Jonathan was leaving and we never know how things change when a CD leaves a house. It’s the first bag that Jonathan made and it celebrates it’s 10 year anniversary this year, 10 years and still very much that girl and worth the investment. A beauty.

notes from filipe.

Are men okay? I truly believe men never really overcome that first feeling of amazement and joy when they first discover they can play with themselves. It's eternally 5th grade for them and their instruments. As a (gay) man myself, I suspect there's nothing more masculine than the gay world. Maybe if straight women—and anyone who wanna date men, honestly—want to understand them, they should look at the lands of fags galore (don't worry, I can totally say that). And what I believe they would discover is that men… Love themselves. They're obsessed. Not in the way they accuse women of being, like, “Oh, she only cares about her looks” (as a matter of fact these women they are talking about are almost always worried about how they're being perceived by men)… No, men are obsessed with themselves in the most homoerotic kinda way.

They love how they can jump from the roof of their parents' house into the pool, or lift heavy things, how their bodies look after the gym, and all their body fluids. They also love how they can blow things up, either in the movies, like anything by Christopher Nolan, or in real life, unfortunately for everybody else. If they could all do it they would definitely date themselves. Homophobia only exists because men hate when other men give up their masculinity to explore their femininity, as Oscar Wilde kinda said: it's all about sex, but sex… Sex is about power. Maybe that's why men just adore dating women who follow them around without complaining.

I truly think most men don't dream about dating an interesting woman who lives an exciting life and will fill up their existence with a whole universe of new things… People who dream these dreams are usually those who want (or are taught) to love men. No, I think guys want a girl who will not make their lives any different. A girl who'll love his friends, but only through him, and who is just there to help his already established routine. And when a woman, or the children, men have with that woman, makes them do something they don't want to, it's just like when their mothers would enter their rooms without knocking to tell them to get dressed because grandma has passed away and they need to go to the funeral. Of course, not all men are like that, I am just generalizing and all that discourse… But good luck to us all finding that supposed exception.

Till next time - Amanda xx